Arts Issue
Sensuality, modernity and personality: these could be loose notes from Emily Ratajkowski's diary, but in fact they are the characteristics that best define the cut-out trend.
In May 2022, Bella Hadid appeared (it's been a long time since the verb “to appear” made so much sense, since the glimpse of the model did indeed look like an appearance) on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival in a long white dress with a cut-out at the hip, fitted with a gold buckle, which made any fashion addict jump off the sofa. It was none other than a vintage Gucci model, signed by Tom Ford, from the autumn/winter 1996 collection - one of many that the American designer has infused with sensuality. The Internet, which thrives on moments like these, when a present-day star breathes new life into icons from the past, never tired of sharing images of Bella, like an angel fallen from heaven, as if she were the final proof of what had long been suspected: the cut-out was back. It is suspected that the trend, which has been growing over the last few seasons, exploded at the beginning of last year when Alexa Demie (or Maddy, the character she plays) wore a tight, elegant black minidress courtesy of Akna (a brand that has bet on the tabloid-glam style of the 2000s) at the premiere of the second season of Euphoria. The detail: the garment had a neckline with a cut-out at the neck and another one at the back, that extended to the abdomen. After the episode aired, demand for “black cut-out dress” increased by 890%, nothing that the HBO series isn't already used to, with all the impact it has had, particularly in terms of clothing. Of course, there are other variants to consider. Cut-out dresses (and jackets, and tops, and trousers...) are like a distant cousin of another, riskier trend, naked dresses, as they feature strategically placed cut-outs to add a bit of spice to a conventional silhouette, ranging from sensual-discreet to semi-provocative.
Anyone who chooses a cut-out look isn't accused of showing off, but of good taste - with the exception of Lourdes Leon, Madonna's daughter, who confused “cut-outs” with “scissors” and turned up at the launch event for the H&M X Mugler collaboration with what looked like the remains of various black fabrics. Apart from these little faux pas, the trend has been the best friend of stars like Zendaya, Dua Lipa, Kendall Jenner and Kim Kardashian, who realized before the rest of us that this type of look brings sensuality, modernity and personality. What's more, it's a great option for those who want to stand out (discreetly) and show their personality through their clothes. Cut-outs (strategic, always) can be used to emphasize areas of the body that we like, or to create a more original look - a small “hole” in a white shirt? Why not? It's also relevant because, unlike other trends, it can be worn by people of all body types. The cut-outs can be made in different sizes and shapes, which allows all women to find garments that fit their (real) size and not the other way around. Yes, all this has philosophical (and sociological) reasons behind it. This autumn/winter, Acne Studios, Dion Lee, Coperni and co. didn't just send dozens of cut-out looks down the catwalks by chance. The cut-out trend can be seen as a reflection of the social and cultural changes of recent decades. In the 20th century, women began to gain more freedom and autonomy. Slowly, they began to have more rights, more voice, more strength. They began to feel more confident. And this was invariably reflected in fashion, which became more diverse and inclusive. More feminine. These cut-outs that we now see on the streets are, in a way, a tribute to, and an expression of, this feminine freedom and autonomy. And Emily Ratajkowski knows it.
*Originally translated from the Arts Issue, published November 2023. Full credits and stories in the print issue.
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