Arts Issue
With the Zodiaque collection, Van Cleef & Arpels expands the symbolism of astrology by sculpting its meanings in gold. The savoir-faire of the French jewelry brand transforms the mysticism of the zodiac into pure magic.
The lights that shine over our heads as soon as the sun goes down defy the limits of rationality. Since time immemorial, we have gazed perplexed at the night sky, wondering why the stars arrange themselves in such a way. Bewildered by their chaos, we gave them order. We treated them like paints, using them to paint elegant constellations. But we stayed unsatisfied. We sensed the importance of these immortal points of light. Intimidated by their immortality, we gave them power over us. Astrology became how we channeled the magical potential of the stars. Even though scientific progress has reduced them to gas giants hovering in empty space, we remain spellbound by their power. Since the 1950s, Van Cleef & Arpels has honored the mysticism of the stars. The Zodiaque collection reformulates its dedication to astrology, channeling the power of the stones that adorn its pieces.
The Maison's fascination with astrological signs is not surprising. Since its inception in 1896, Van Cleef & Arpels has produced talismans that invoke our more spiritual side. But with the new release of Zodiaque, these symbols become narrative elements. Unlike previous editions, the pieces in this collection expand beyond two dimensions, venturing into three-dimensionality. Each of the twelve medals has two sides: on the front are representations of the elements associated with the signs. It is on this side that the Maison once again proves the value of its savoir-faire. Bulls, lions, scales: all beautifully designed through the manipulation of rose gold. These illustrations surround the stone at the center of each talisman. On the back of the twelve medals, you'll find the symbol, name, and dates of the respective signs. The duality of the pieces is proof of the care and attention that motivates Van Cleef & Arpels. These are not just jewels. They are the materialization of stories.
Although the manipulation of gold is incredible, the pieces in the Zodiaque collection stand out for how the stones perpetuate a narrative. Van Cleef & Arpels see them as possessing an energy as mystical as that of the stars that inspire the collection. Inspired by the four elements that divide the twelve zodiac signs, the stones selected are grouped into different categories. For the water signs - Crab, Pisces, and Scorpio - stones that represent the volatility of the ocean were chosen. Blue quartz mirrors the depth of the sea. Sodalite replicates the tribulation of the sea. Turquoise appeals to the tone of a tropical landscape. It is with the same intention that the stones for the earth signs are picked. Malachite was chosen for the sign Virgo, with its impressively orderly striations. Taurus’ strength is represented by the chromatic depth of aventurine. As if to embody the sensitivity of Capricorn, amazonite has a translucent delicacy. The air signs are evoked through deep-toned stones. Lapis lazuli, blue aventurine, and obsidian are chosen to embody not only Gemini, Aquarius, and Libra, but also the tranquillity of the night sky. The purpose of stones for fire signs is opposed to this, intending to personify the euphoric nature of the element. Tiger's eye is indicative of the energy of the sign Aries, just as pietersite represents the creativity of Sagittarius and red jasper replicates the strength of Leo.
The Zodiaque collection doesn't just update Van Cleef & Arpels' astrological narrative, it is also a means by which the Maison's legacy is honored. The collection includes yellow gold medals similar to those the French brand created in the 1950s, now with new dimensions. With their 21-millimeter diameter, these pieces are symbols of the brand's DNA. More than jewelry, Van Cleef & Arpels' talismans appeal to the intimacy that exists between our humanity and the divine.
Translated from the original in the Arts Issue, published November 2023. Full stories and credits in the print version.
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