Artigo Anterior

#SuzyPFW: Giambattista Valli's Romantic Side; Moncler Gamme Rouge's Off-Duty Fairytale

Próximo Artigo

#SuzyPFW Thom Browne: High Concept Played Out in a Single Fabric

#SuzyPFW MiuMiu: Keeping Summer in Check

Suzy Menkes 5. 10. 2017

by Suzy Menkes

 

In past years, when the MiuMiu show was a landmark moment – as four solid weeks of shows in four cities came to an end in Paris – the ambiance created by Miuccia Prada always seemed sly and surprising.

The set might have been covered in floral wallpaper, as if from a 1950s’ maid’s bedroom. Or there were perky little coats to suit aspiring Hollywood teen stars, sitting in the front row. Add the venue itself, a building with a French political background, and it all seemed very Miuccia.

This time round, when Louis Vuitton was closing the last day of Paris Fashion Week with a show at the Louvre museum, MiuMiu’s staging had faux wooden pillars, brick flooring, and banal white plastic garden chairs with the name of the guest on pink and tangerine mattress-foam on each seat. The line-up of looks was, well, ordinary, but in a colourful way. As nothing in the Prada world can really be described as banal, let’s try another word: wearable.

The clothes were practical and stylish, with just a few touches of the MiuMiu spirit when sparky jewellery decorated sleeveless plaid jackets. Another check fabric appeared on a slim dress, or the same lean silhouette was reworked with lacy materials.

The designer, famed for the ugly aesthetic and sour colours in the 1990s, replaced that urgent energy with geometric lines that formed a grid for flower prints. When that was worked in fine knits, the effect was forceful.

While the music was an intense, even violent, mishmash, the collection was pretty practical and seemed to be aimed at the busy, young, working woman. No harm in that, but like so many designers who were once daring leaders, Miuccia seemed to have found someone to follow faithfully: herself. That is not a bad choice, since things that Prada brought into the fashion world – like knee-high socks and nylon bags – have become codes for her brands.

But at a time when other designers are playing with plastic – something Miuccia did with daring sexual potency at the start of the millennium – MiuMiu had a veil over dresses that revealed underwear.

They will be worn (with stretch hose underneath) in the real world and so will the nice collection. But “nice” is not a word that sets fashion on fire.

Artigos Relacionados

Suzy Menkes 5. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW Altuzarra: A Wild Growth From His French Roots

The designer’s return to his native France after a decade in New York produced an overwhelmingly dense collection

Ler mais

Suzy Menkes 5. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW Thom Browne: High Concept Played Out in a Single Fabric

The American designer brought showmanship to skillful compositions for a performance-art aesthetic

Ler mais

Suzy Menkes 4. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW Hermès: A Grid, But With Colour

The designer brought poetry and graphic pattern to tailoring

Ler mais

Suzy Menkes 3. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW Louis Vuitton: Anachronistic But Romantic

With 18th-century decorative grandeur and sportswear from the new millennium, Louis Vuitton closed the four-week fashion marathon on a high note.

Ler mais

Suzy Menkes 3. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW: Art’s at the Heart of Yudashkin

The father and daughter design duo find inspiration in artist Kazimir Malevich.

Ler mais

Suzy Menkes 3. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW Chanel: Water, Water Everywhere

Karl Lagerfeld turns on the tap of his imagination.

Ler mais

Palavra da Vogue 3. 10. 2017

#SuzyPFW Alexander McQueen: Nature Sweet or Wild

After seven years at the helm, Sarah Burton continues to create her own world from a powerful heritage

Ler mais

Este website utiliza cookies. Saiba mais sobre a nossa política de cookies.   OK