The Wisdom Issue
In this mantra that 50 is the new 40, or 40 is the new 30, what will 20 be? The new 10? We are witnessing a generation that, while still young, seeks to remain too young, too soon—resorting to aesthetics and skincare rituals that are not appropriate for their age. The result is not always positive — and there are specialists in aesthetic medicine who confirm this.
In a frenetic pace of life, almost impossible to keep up with, an urgency has set in that defies logic: the rush to stop aging that, for many, has barely begun. It is true that this concern is not new. Aging has always been an issue, especially for women. And that is only natural. It is not with a light heart that we witness the signs of our own beauty fading with the passage of time, and to deny this feeling would be hypocritical — it is no coincidence that the cosmetics industry has become one of the most powerful in the world. But a few generations ago, this issue was not an obsession. Not at 15, not at 25, sometimes not even at 30. I got a lot of sunburns as a teenager, when we didn't have the information we have today about the harmful effects of the sun, the most serious of which is skin cancer. Basic care — washing my face at night, using a day cream — came perhaps at 20 or 30, greatly influenced by my professional environment. Today, at 44, my care routine is different. My skincare routine is part of my daily life and is as sacred as brushing my teeth. Cosmetic procedures, which until now have been few and mild, only began when I entered my 50s, an age already considered late for this. Until then, a healthy lifestyle — a balanced diet, regular sleep, exercise, and plenty of water — kept me “young,” without any big secrets. Over the last few months, much ink has been spilled over a truth that seems to be indisputable: on this path that is aging, Millennials did it better. In other words, the generation that is now between 35 and 45 years old seems to be aging better than Generation Z, born between 1997 and 2012, approximately. "Millennials grew up with a slower and more careful relationship with aging: they care about skin care and have gradually embraced small cosmetic corrections in moderation. They are more aware and less influenced by social media. They have a more critical spirit," explains Ana Silva Guerra, Specialist in Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery, Clinical Director of the Ana Silva Guerra Clinic in Lisbon. She explains that, influenced by a culture of instant images and digital comparison, “the younger ones” seek quick results, early interventions, and have very little patience for the body's natural rhythms. "I see 20-year-old girls undergoing procedures that, in my opinion, would be unthinkable at that age. This is associated with a more stressful lifestyle, less sleep, and greater exposure to screens and digital filters. A fast pace with an immature and uncritical emotional component,“ she adds. According to the specialist, this generation seems to be very informed and overly demanding. ”They want to understand what options are available, but they don't accept ‘let's wait and see’. And if we don't give them what they want, they will look elsewhere. Perhaps they lack the time and context to find balance—something that Millennials have already begun to achieve.“ Beatriz Leite da Cunha, a doctor and specialist in aesthetic medicine in the city of Porto, corroborates this idea: ”More and more young people are seeking cosmetics and ‘anti-aging’ procedures at an early age. (...) The effect of constant exposure of one's own image on social media and constant comparison with unrealistic beauty standards, or the need for external validation, already naturally marked in this age group, are amplified by a digital environment in which likes and comments function as a form of social approval." It is easy to see that this urgency to prevent signs of aging, even before they appear, does not stem solely from self-care, but above all from the fear of failing to live up to an increasingly demanding and relentless aesthetic ideal. “The line between self-care and self-surveillance is very thin today,” explains Ana Silva Guerra. “There is a highly active skincare and beauty industry that sells the idea that the sooner you start, the better. And while some principles are correct, such as starting to use sunscreen in your teens or adopting healthy habits early on, the medicalization of youth has, in many cases, become a new form of anxiety.” For Beatriz Leite da Cunha, “more than preventing wrinkles or other signs of aging, it is a race to achieve ‘perfect’, immaculate skin, inspired by standards that only exist in social media filters and image editing.”
When it comes to preventive procedures, botulinum toxin stands out, having become very popular in recent years. “In exceptional situations, where aging occurs at an accelerated rate, early treatment with botulinum toxin may be indicated, but these are very specific cases that require careful evaluation,” explains Ana Silva Guerra. Aesthetic specialist Beatriz Leite da Cunha adds to this information that the use of Botox makes sense when there are real signs of dynamic wrinkle formation, when certain expressions begin to mark the skin and have the potential to develop into deeper creases. However, she insists, “true prevention consists of intervening at the right time, always depending on individual assessment.” When used strategically, in small doses, and respecting facial expressions, the toxin can indeed be an ally in prevention. But there is a big caveat: "The young face is still in the midst of expressive maturation. Facial expression is a vital tool for building identity, emotional communication, and self-esteem. Prematurely blocking certain muscles can interfere with this subtle development, even if unintentionally. In addition, prolonged and misguided use can lead to muscle compensation—that is, other muscle groups begin to work harder to compensate for those that have been blocked, altering the natural balance of the face over time. The consequence? Less spontaneous expressions, stiffer features and, paradoxically, a less youthful appearance," explains Silva Guerra. In the case of other procedures, the risk remains. "Excessive volumizing fillers at an early age can disfigure a face, cause it to lose its identity, and further aggravate the sagging that sets in over time, because the face is ‘inflated’; while deep peels or surgery at a very young age may mean that later, when they are really needed, the impact will no longer be as transformative. In addition, excessive interventions can lead to tissue fatigue—loss of elasticity, changes in texture, and above all, an artificial appearance that should be avoided at all costs," he adds. When it comes to beauty routines for younger skin, using famous anti-aging ingredients such as retinol, hyaluronic acid, or peptides, there don't seem to be any major drawbacks — except for retinol, which requires more attention and caution. However, more important than using “what works” is knowing when and why to use it. “Young skin does not need a robust routine, but daily sun protection, adequate hydration, balanced cleansing, and, above all, consistency,” confirms the director of the Lisbon clinic that bears her name. These active ingredients should be introduced with discretion and purpose — not as a response to the fear of aging. This is because the result may be the opposite of what is intended, since damaged and inflamed skin ages more quickly. The same is true for cosmetic procedures: "The risks may outweigh the benefits and you may end up looking older than your actual age. For example, some exaggerated fillers leave the face looking young, naturally more ‘rounded’, overly angular, and with a more mature appearance," emphasizes Leite da Cunha. We can say that there is no fixed age to start such care, but rather specific signs that should guide the decision. “The type and timing of procedures will always depend on a careful and individualized medical evaluation, as well as the patient's specific complaint. The plan will depend on the specific goals,” concludes Leite da Cunha.
When it comes to preventive procedures, botulinum toxin stands out, having become very popular in recent years. “In exceptional situations, where aging occurs at an accelerated rate, early treatment with botulinum toxin may be indicated, but these are very specific cases that require careful evaluation,” explains Ana Silva Guerra. Aesthetic specialist Beatriz Leite da Cunha adds to this information that the use of Botox makes sense when there are real signs of dynamic wrinkle formation, when certain expressions begin to mark the skin and have the potential to develop into deeper creases. However, she insists, “true prevention consists of intervening at the right time, always depending on individual assessment.” When used strategically, in small doses and respecting facial expressions, the toxin can indeed be an ally in prevention. But there is a big caveat: "The young face is still in the midst of expressive maturation. Facial expression is a vital tool for building identity, emotional communication, and self-esteem. Prematurely blocking certain muscles can interfere with this subtle development, even if unintentionally. In addition, prolonged and misguided use can lead to muscle compensation—that is, other muscle groups begin to work harder to compensate for those that have been blocked, altering the natural balance of the face over time. The consequence? Less spontaneous expressions, stiffer features, and, paradoxically, a less youthful appearance,“ explains Silva Guerra. In the case of other procedures, the risk remains. ”Excessive volumizing fillers at an early age can disfigure a face, cause it to lose its identity, and further aggravate the sagging that sets in over time.
Aesthetic medicine, as practiced by these doctors, does not aim to stop time, but to accompany each phase with respect and balance, using resources that improve quality of life and self-esteem, without neglecting identity. When “aging well” is synonymous with staying young at all costs, erasing all signs of aging, treating every wrinkle or sagging skin as an enemy — then we are no longer talking about well-being, but denial. At 22, the most important thing is not to fight signs that do not yet exist, but to create a healthy relationship with your skin and with time. These aesthetic medicine specialists argue, above all, that the best prevention is to invest in health and consistency, not invasive procedures; they also claim that the pillars of aesthetic longevity — and real beauty — are much simpler than what Instagram would have us believe: restful sleep, a balanced diet, daily sun protection, hydration, and a good relationship with the mirror. Aesthetic medicine is there to monitor, alert, and help — never to anticipate excessively. Aging is inevitable, but it is up to each of us how we want to do it. On this unique and personal journey, the secret may lie in accepting each stage, without rushing or external impositions. Perhaps, in this way, “forever too young” can truly become a genuine freedom: that of being, at the right time, the best version of ourselves.
Translated from the original in Vogue Portugal's The Wisdom Issue, published in September 2025. Full stories and credits are available in the print issue.
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