December 2024
With a Louvre that steals attention, a Guggenheim set to open next year (as well as the Zayed National Museum), an open-air Art Biennale dotting its streets and this Abu Dhabi Art Fair returning for its 16th - sixteenth! - edition, artistic creation is at the heart of the capital of the United Arab Emirates.
The country may have a relatively short history - in early December, it celebrated its 53rd anniversary - but it is quickly making up for “lost” time by embracing and establishing itself as an art center for the world, making artistic creation an integral part of its History. If you always knew about this investment in local talents and across borders, you are a better person than me (or, at least, better well-informed): led by the stereotypes perpetuated by countless photographs of its skyscrapers, I had always imagined the UAE and its most famous cities, which includes the capital Abu Dhabi, a kind of futuristic Wall Street, made up of giant mirrored buildings that reflected not only the sky, but also its cosmopolitan business vibe. But what I found was an architectural play (and show of lights, at night) that highlights its eye for design and urban aesthetics. This, in a view from the top (of one of its 40+ story buildings); at ground level, the details challenge the mind and thinking even more. In addition to the opulent palaces and mosques planned by its founder, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan (1918-2004) - as well as an Abrahamic Family House that is the postcard of tolerance by bringing together, in the same space, a mosque, a synagogue and a church in this predominantly Muslim country -, it is possible, throughout the year, to attend various installations, lectures and workshops related to the Arts industry. One of the climaxes of this annual program comes with the Abu Dhabi Art Fair, in the Saadiyat Cultural District (yes, culture has its own neighborhood), which took place between November 20th and 24th, 2024 at the Manarat Al Saadiyat event center. Organized by the Department of Culture and Tourism - Abu Dhabi (DCT Abu Dhabi), this 16th edition presented more than 100 local and international galleries, offering a rich cultural and artistic experience and denouncing the evolution of an Art fair that began in 2007 and that insists on not slowing down growth: “I've been here since 2016 and what I notice the most differences is, firstly, the fair's programming has seriously grown”, explains the director of the Abu Dhabi Art Fair, Dyala Nusseibeh. “For example, we have the artists section Beyond: Emerging Artists, which are three young artists [Dina Nazmi Korchid, Simrin Mehra Agarwal, Fatima Al Ali] who have been commissioned with ambitious works to present at the fair; we have artists working in Al Ain [a city in the Emirate about 160 km from the capital], designed specifically for that area, allowing us to have works throughout the Emirates; we have the Gateway section, which already existed, it emerged the year I joined as a unique presentation by an artist, and since I’m here, I've been working with different curators to think about different concepts - this year, it's Otra Orilla - and I think this has been an important space to develop knowledge about the region's art history, but also about the potential narratives for the region, allowing us to get to know today's artists and where they come from... And we also have an exhibition in the Auditorium this year, about Arab artists who lived in Paris between 1908 and 1988 and it's about this kind of art communities that were formed and how they inspired each other”, she digresses, showing the nuances that paint this annual event and which attracts galleries, artists, collectors and the press from all over the world.
The appeal is not unjustified: the quality and magnitude of the space that uses the Emirates as a starting point to later build connections with various parts of the world shows the versatility of its content, which is not limited to the reputation of the recognized artists who exhibit there. “Another aspect [of the fair’s growth] is the educational aspect”, points out the director. “For example, we launched an award for students whose work is displayed right at the entrance, in the Welcome Pavillion, and that focuses on the opportunity for architecture students to think about a concept, present it and the winner gains this visibility at the Fair. Another initiative is Art in Tech, with engineering and aerodynamics students thinking and creating together”, she indicates, listing just a couple of focuses that the Abu Dhabi Art Fair covers - there are many more. Throughout the exhibition center, you can explore sectors with different themes, such as sustainability and women artists, in a seemingly endless array of galleries. Of course, qualitative growth comes along with quantitative growth: “when I joined, there were 37 galleries; now there are more than 100”, says Dyala proudly. “All of these developments are benefiting from these incredible changes happening in the UAE today, benefiting from these incredible investments in culture that are happening here, at a government level, and this is just one of the programs that ends up benefiting from it.” The consequences of this are obvious to any layman, even though those in the know never tire of mentioning, to the most inattentive, this artistic emergency that seems to be constantly being fed at the top of the State hierarchy. Lorenzo Faschi, co-founder of the Italian Galleria Continua and this year curator of the Beyond: Emerging Artists section has participated in the event almost since its inception and speaks with authority on the topic: “I started coming about 15 years ago, and to Dubai about 18 years ago, and there was talk about the opening of the Louvre and the Guggenheim and everyone thought it was nonsense. But I always thought they wouldn't say that if they didn't mean to. I believed in them, in this country. And now there is the Louvre, the Guggenheim is on the way, and other museums, and it is very important, because it is a complex area, with wars not far away, but they are open, they welcome differences. And we need differences. Like when you put blue and yellow together and you get green. We need differences to grow and discover new things.”, he points out. And this celebration of differences is evident in the city (like the Abrahamic Family House): far from the stereotypes with which the Middle East is associated, Abu Dhabi is a mix of religions and genealogies that seems to dissolve into a single link - pride in being from the United Arab Emirates. And this can be felt in the vibrancy of the urban center, which also calls for a more intense spread of the word about this creative explosion. The art that seems to be a tourist attraction par excellence also contributes to this atmosphere: “The arts have long been a cornerstone of Emirati culture, and the Abu Dhabi Art Fair plays a vital role in showcasing our cultural identity to the world”, confirms in a statement, His Excellency Mohamed Khalifa Al Mubarak, President of the Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi. “Events like the annual art fair, along with awards like this, open new avenues for creativity and expression, while promoting artistic talent at all levels, from the grassroots to global prominence.”
This global prominence is coming to the forefront and, if you weren't already aware, let this text be the trigger for it. It is natural for us to be blinded by our own preconceptions. As Fiaschi says, “the problem with Europe, for a long time, is that we are too pretentious. We tend to think of everything as kitsch or bizarre just because it's so far away, we don't notice the nuances and differences. I think it's important to realize that quality is everywhere, good and bad - we have good artists in Italy and Portugal and we also have bad ones - just like here. In our case, Galleria Continua, we love traveling, we held the first Dubai Art Fair at the very beginning when no one did it… Because the intention was to learn, not just teach. It's an exchange. It is important to build bridges. And building bridges is also about spreading the word, experiencing culture, communicating. It has to do with respect.” That's why, even if it's not through this text, sooner or later, this artistic pulse from Abu Dhabi that wants to go - and does - far beyond local artists, will reach your five senses. This year's event also featured new sections featuring contemporary regional artists and works from Central Asia and the Caucasus, to promote cultural exchange, attracting art enthusiasts and collectors from around the world, central to the maintenance of this fair and even Abu Dhabi, as a global cultural center. “Abu Dhabi Art also grew thanks to collectors”, highlights Lorenzo. “This is important, not just for the money, but to continue supporting artists. Don't forget that galleries start with people who are passionate about art - and only then it becomes a profession. And this passion supports artists, but to do that, you have to sell. And if you can't sell, you won't survive. You have to be sustainable. If the Abu Dhabi Art Fair has grown, it is due to collectors, because there are more and more eyes (of collectors) and even new generations focused on it.”
As a showcase that continues to attract investors and the curious public, it is no wonder that the Abu Dhabi Art Fair is a catalyst for the UAE's growing art market, which is increasingly culturally interconnected, finding in this event the culmination of an annual program that includes artistic residencies, commissions and artist exhibitions, as well as a strong educational outreach, including works by emerging artists at the venue, therefore giving them a stage with a global audience. This global audience has just grown by at least one (me), but let's hope that there are more readers who are now realizing that there are direct flights from Portugal to Abu Dhabi.
Translated from the original in the What's Next Issue, published December 2024. Full credits and stories in the print issue.
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