English Version | Show some skin

Next fall there is a rule across all Fashion trends: whether it's cold or rainy, skin should be on display. The more the better.

Until Florence Pugh appeared at Valentino's Haute Couture show last July wearing a Barbie pink dress composed of a multi-layered tulle skirt and a completely transparent top, popular imagination associated the term "naked dress" with five celebrities: Kate Moss, Cher, Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Carrie Bradshaw — Marilyn Monroe deserves a separate mention. But the British actress’ choice of dress caused such a backlash that it will be impossible, after this “soap opera”, to forget the Pierpaolo Piccioli creation — no, we are not going to replicate the less sympathetic criticism from frustrated internet users, that would be giving them too much importance. It should be noted, however, that Pugh previously approved the removal of the liner, which eliminates any confusion about the intentionality of its transparency. “I was comfortable with my small breasts”, she explained to a publication. “And showing it made [people] angry because I was comfortable.” The attacks were so offensive that she was forced to share a statement on her

Instagram page. “Listen, I knew when I wore that incredible Valentino dress that there was no way there wouldn’t be a commentary on it,” she wrote. Interestingly, it was precisely these comments that elevated the dress to iconic status, similar to the naked dress that Kate Moss wore in 1993 to a party for the Elite Model agency in London. In an interview to the British edition of Vogue, the supermodel remarked: “I did not know that this dress was see-through until the pictures came out the next day in the newspaper. It was the flash that made it look naked 'cause actually the fabric when I was wearing it, when I went out I didn't think it was that see-through. But, obviously, it was.” It was these reviews that put Pugh's look on the same level of that unforgettable Bob Mackie that Cher chose for the Met Gala in 1974 (although, as far as Cher is concerned, transparencies don't stop there), of the Adam Seldman covered in Swarovski crystals (and little else) that Rihanna wore to the CFDA awards gala in 2014, of the Givenchy that Beyoncé wore on the red carpet of the Met Gala (and that many publications considered "the naked dress to end all naked dresses") in 2015, or the leather DKNY dress that Carrie Bradshaw planned to wear on her first date with Mr. Big, in the inaugural season of Sex and the City. “It's the naked dress”, Charlotte exclaimed in disbelief as she realized her friend's decision. “You're obviously going to have sex with him tonight.” Miranda hastened to clarify, "She's not gonna have sex. She's just gonna look like sex.” To which Carrie replied, "That's right. I'm just the trailer.”

The naked dress, like other transparent pieces — and this season there are many — is just that, the trailer for a fearless sensuality that doesn't need to apologize for showing off. After several seasons in which “being sexy” meant little more than washing your face, putting on sweatpants, and putting on lipstick, fashion's daring side returns in all its splendor. Translucent fabrics lent an air of ethereal magic to after dark looks by Erdem, Prada and Bottega Veneta, giving classic and elegant outfits an eminently erotic charge. Between prominent necklines, mile-wide splits, and sumptuous lace dresses, it's impossible not to wink at this trend — which is for wearing in and out of the bedroom, sorry, home. A celebration of femininity that is applauded, and in which old acquaintances like diaphanous fabrics and lingerie are found. Nensi Dojaka, Simone Rocha, Fendi, Burberry, Giambattista Valli, all great brands and designers bet on the maxim "the more transparent the better." One of the best examples is the sheer white Jacquemus gown that Dua Lipa recently wore to the French designer's wedding - an almost perfect model, impossible to describe, that disarms even those who look down on transparencies. Footnote: the singer was wearing a white bra, which may have contributed to the absence of unfounded attacks by the usual moralists. The naked dress is both a challenge and a declaration of intentions. It plays with modesty, morality, fun, and self-esteem. It is a celebration of femininity that is applauded, and in which old acquaintances, like diaphanous fabrics and lingerie, are found. Nensi Dojaka, Simone Rocha, Fendi, Burberry, Giambattista Valli, all great brands and designers bet on the maxim “the more transparent the better.” One of the best examples is the sheer white Jacquemus gown that Dua Lipa recently wore to the French designer’s wedding — an almost perfect model, impossible to describe, that disarms even those who look down on transparencies. Footnote: the singer was wearing a white bra, which may have contributed to the absence of unfounded attacks by the usual moralists. The naked dress is both a challenge and a declaration of intentions. It plays with modesty, morality, fun, and self-esteem. 

Before the pandemic, 2018 was a particularly good year for the naked dress. Among the dozens of celebrities who chose to bare everything, highlights include Rita Ora in Giuseppe Zanotti at the MTV Music Awards, Kendall Jenner in Alexandre Vauthier and Schiaparelli at the Cannes Film Festival, or Zoe Kravitz (Saint Laurent) and Selena Gomez (Coach), both at the Met Gala. Of course, long before that, there was MM. Marilyn Monroe will have been the first, and perhaps the most daring, of all the supporters of this look. The dress in question, by Jean Luis, had 2500 crystals and had to be sewn over the actress’ body just before she went on stage at Madison Square Garden, in New York, where she sang Happy Birthday to President Kennedy — it was one of MM's last appearances, who would die weeks later, in August 1962. Perhaps this is why it has become the perfect summary of the unparalleled beauty of the eternal Hollywood star, and a well-known landmark in American history.  For those who haven't figured it out yet, yes, we are talking about the dress Kim Kardashian wore on the red carpet of this year's Met Gala, the one that she somehow pulled from the archives, like a spoiled child, the reason why she embarked on a crazy diet only to slip into it for a few brief minutes which, nevertheless, did not prevent some irreversible damage. Monroe’s statement is therefore totally opposite to Kardashian’s. While the former used her incomparable curves to “tease” the audience, already used to the immortal sex-appeal of the actress, the latter needed a model “with history” to reinvent herself and, once again, become the center of attention. That is also the secret of the naked dress. There are those who see it as a way to combat all those who think women shouldn't wear anything too revealing, there are those who fall in love with a certain designer's creation (a creation that happens to be transparent), there are those who see it as a means to an end. All are legitimate, of course, because it is part of the essence of the naked dress to have a thousand and one faces. And in all of them, there is only one commandment that matters: the skin is to be in plain sight.

Translated from the original on The Gossip Issue of Vogue Portugal.Full credits and stories on the print issue.