English Version | Spoil Me: Winter Garden

The collection was born in 1970, but it could have been launched yesterday, or today, or tomorrow: with a design that knows no time, remaining current even as the decades pass, it is a line that, classic and timeless, nevertheless, Don't close your eyes to the news. In this range that highlights a species that blooms in winter, all its poetic connotation is now enhanced with two new pendants and two new pairs of earrings, either in white gold and gray mother-of-pearl, or in yellow gold and turquoise, which underline, once again, , the brand's mastery in its work with stones.

In an excellent demonstration of their savoir-faire and attention to detail, the yellow or white gold setting results from the ancient technique of lost-wax casting or micro-casting, and the six cabochon petals that adorn each corolla with their subtly asymmetrical motifs seem to win life in the breeze, in an arrangement on different levels that reinforces this dynamism. The central structure of the flower is also revealed in three dimensions: the pistil, which contains three discreetly elevated brilliant diamonds, is made up of thin gold threads arranged at different heights and inclined at different angles, in a texture and asymmetry that appeal not only to look at, but also to touch. The final piece also testifies to the manual work of the Maison's artisans, who do not neglect the demanding and meticulous (after all, are there components more delicate than those of this winter flower?) final polishing.

The quality of Van Cleef & Arpels releases is not only due to the detail of its artisanal production, it is also, unsurprisingly, due to the nobility of its materials. His savoir-faire does not exist without an alliance with the precious stones that give life to the house's collections, in general, and this Rose de Noël in particular. Subjected to a rigorous selection process that has more than a century of experience - it is no coincidence that the house has a specialized Stone Department -, the mission is to seek out specimens that stand out due to their quality and proportions, in order to give each petal volume and relief. For these new products in particular, gray mother-of-pearl, an organic material from shells, was selected for the uniformity of its color, as well as its soft iridescence, which ranges from green to pink; and turquoise, formed by the passage of water through copper-rich rocks, enlivens the pieces with its brilliant tones, which range from light blue to intense blue. Interestingly, the materials linked to the seashore fit perfectly into this interpretation of terrestrial flora for a message that underlines Van Cleef & Arpels' relationship with the theme of Nature. After selecting the stones, they are cut in volume and then polished to increase their shine before being set in sets of six, in the case of pendants, or 12, in the case of earrings, for a uniform chromatic result. In accordance with the maison's standards of excellence, only the highest qualities pass the test: D to F for color; IF to VVS for clarity. The final piece is a captivating play of light that sees the perfect marriage between the vibrancy of turquoise and the sunny shine of yellow gold, as well as the impeccable connection between the depth of gray mother-of-pearl and the lunar sparkle of white gold.

This Christmas rose is not the first flower in the Van Cleef & Arpels garden and it certainly won't be the last. Presenting creations subordinate to flora since 1906, Rose de Noël has enjoyed reinterpretations since 1970: after a first piece in coral and yellow gold, the line expanded over time with several colorful variations, such as onyx, applied to pieces such as brooches, earrings and rings, in a reflection of the vibrant and bohemian decade in which it emerged. Today, it remains a mirror of the times because it maintains its timeless design and an aesthetic that speaks to all generations. Above all, it continues to pay homage to Nature, that emblematic source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels, which is a message that not only does not lose strength or meaning, but has never been more current.

Translated from the original in the Jewellery Supplement "Spoil me", published December 2024 with the What's Next issue. Full credits and stories in the print issue.