English Version | Big nail energy

Twelve meters and eight centimeters. That is the current Guinness record for the world's longest nails, held by Diana Armstrong of Minnesota (USA). Each nail is around 1.38 meters long, together reaching the award-winning figure. But this is an extreme. It’s not every day that we see nails the size of a five-year-old. Large nails are, however, a trend, and here we’ll start by scratching the surface.

Our status today may be defined by the brand of the bag we carry, however, in 17th century China that status was perceived by the size of the nails. The rule was simple: the bigger, the better. Long, strong nails - never brittle, God forbid - were synonymous with beauty, power, and wealth, because maintaining such a long length was reserved for those who could navigate life without literally lifting a finger. There were even some who wore metal protections to safeguard their nails from arduous tasks such as, perhaps, tidying the tea service, although popular opinion considered this technique a form of cheating. For social glory was only a finger (or ten) away, to the point that many inhabitants of this fateful era were buried with their long fingernails - not on their fingers, as you might expect, but on top of their bodies, cast into the earth as if they were seeds. There are horror stories and horror stories. And even if this is not one of those that keeps us up at night, it is likely involuntary lead us towards the nail clippers.

In 21st century Europe, big nails may no longer be a status symbol (at least, not financially), but they have the ability to generate a significant following on social media. Juan Alvear, better known as @byjuanalvear, is one example of this recent phenomenon. As a couture nail artist, the creator does much more than simply applying a coat of nail polish - he knows how to transform the fingers of the most ordinary beings into small works of art. “I actually never planned to be a nail artist. As a kid, I collected nail polishes because I loved the enamel finish and pigments including glitter and holographic flakes,” he explains in an interview with Vogue Portugal. The artist who started by “painting friends’ nails in exchange for more nail polish colors” is now responsible for the sculptural works that rest on the nails of celebrities like Dove Cameron, Charli XCX or Julia Fox, and it was all thanks to social media. “Half jokingly, I started an Instagram where I would post experimental nail designs and eventually started creating small sculptures to put on fingers. Soon after I started posting these sculptures, the fashion world began to notice my creations and a whole career sat itself on my lap. People hadn’t seen surrealist nail sculpture like this and it’s cool to see how relevant it has become in the past five years or so,” he confesses.

Celebrities, public figures, and influencers were the trigger for the popularization of large, highly stylized nails. Rosalía even dedicated a verse to them in Aute Cuture (“Uñas de Dvine ya me las han copiado/ Que te las clavo, niño, ten cuidado”), where she references her nail artist, Dvine, and those who have copied the way she embellishes her hands. I mean, "copied" may be an exaggeration when we’re talking about such a rich and varied industry. Big nails have become one of the biggest Beauty trends of recent times. They’re something accessible to any gender, class, ethnicity, or social status, thanks to the democratization enabled by digital platforms like TikTok. And if there is anyone who knows what it is to succeed in this Internet niche, it is Vials. “From the beginning, the reaction to my nails online has always been overwhelmingly positive and supportive! (…) When you express yourself authentically and don’t adhere to society’s guidelines of what is considered ‘normal’, there will always be mixed reactions - but I welcome that. I receive a lot of comments filled with confusion, curiosity, shock, even disgust. I use those moments to educate, to open up to my audience, answer their questions and even poke a little fun at myself!” The influencer has gathered a community of long nails fans around her rule number one - "always protect the nails" - and the questions asked by her followers have resulted in a series of short videos where she explains the daily life of a person with big nails. “My nails gradually grew to this extreme length, so I’ve come up with various tips and tricks along the way to make things easier while ensuring Rule # 1 is enforced,” she explains. The videos that the influencer publishes under the motto "Vials' Long Nail Life Hacks" are among the most viewed on her platforms and aim to answer the most unusual doubts of her Internet follower. Think you can't take out your contact lenses if you grow your nails? Vials has a solution - which, by the way, is much easier than it seems, you just need to know how use your knuckles. 

There's no escaping the cliché. "How do you do anything with those nails?" is the question that both Juan Alvear and Vials receive the most. It's a foreseeable question, especially from those who have never had to learn how to tie a pair of sneakers with an obstacle resting on each finger (the author of this text included). But the two artists believe it is a matter of habit. “My day to day activities change but only slightly. Especially because I love a sculptural moment or spike on my nail I have to be careful not to scratch my face accidentally,” shares Juan Alvear, who claims that the hardest things to do with larger nails are "putting my shoes on" and "doing other people's nails." Vials also believes she has changed some of her habits, “but because it has happened gradually, it’s completely second nature to me. Instead of using my fingertips to press buttons or pick things up, I use the sides of my fingers or knuckles. Instead of putting all the pressure on my nails, I move more cautiously and intentionally when using my hands, ” she says. Even though Vials devotes a large part of her content to detailing how it is possible, and surprisingly easy, to live with big nails, there are always those who get carried away by the stereotypes associated with it, assuming that the artist must be “incapable of doing things for myself, don’t work or ‘contribute anything to society’.” But words are not forever and nails, nails are… Or at least until the next nail appointment at the salon. 

Yes, having large nails takes work. Yes, there are drawbacks. However, in little or no way does this deter those who see this type of nails as a lifestyle. “I think they are such a unique and luxurious form of expression. When I wear a statement nail, I know it sparks interest in the people around me. My nails start conversations and often help me filter the people who get me,” shares Juan Alvear. On her hand, Vials confesses that she loves that she is able to “change my nails to match the aesthetic of any photoshoot or project I’m working on at the moment. It allows me to constantly experiment and elevate my style in different ways, and create new outfits to compliment every set.” Because nails can be as much an accessory to our look as a bag or a pair of shoes. Whether you paint your nails with the brightest colors of the rainbow or apply on them the letters of your name - it's worth looking up Juan Alvear's design on Alexis Stone's nails at the Balenciaga show in New York - the way you decorate your nails reflects your personality, even for those who prefer clear nail polish. And just like the other aspects of our personality, they are not open to public debate.

“In the past I’ve received comments telling me that [my nails] look ‘cheap’ and ‘undesirable’, but my value as a human being is not up for debate, and certainly is not based on my physical appearance,” replied Vials when questioned about the stereotypes that she faces the most. Juan Alvear even says that “there are people who have avoided approaching me based on the fact that I was wearing longer nails.” However, the artist believes that his gender also plays an important role in the mindset of the people around him. “Even within the LGBT community, there’s a lot of progress to be made in terms of accepting queer men who wear long nails, makeup, more intricate hairstyles, and/or other beauty elements that are typically deemed feminine. (…)  But if anything it’s about expanding people’s minds and understanding that you can do whatever you choose to do,” Juan concludes.

It may be weird for some, confusing even, but not understanding something does not give us the right to judge it. “I don’t believe there should be limitations on who can wear, appreciate or enjoy nails. I’ve received messages from people around the world who wanted to start wearing long nails but were nervous how their peers would react,” Vials highlights. It is not by chance that the influencer dominates the TikTok niche that is dedicated to the cult of big nails. She conveys a confidence so assertive that it makes anyone want to turn their nails into a means of individual expression. “My advice will always be to do it for yourself, express yourself the way that makes you happy, and celebrate what makes you unique! Nails are for everybody, regardless of how you identify, and there’s a global community of people who will support you for who you are,” Vials concludes, emanating what could only be called big nails energy.

Translated from the original on The Butterfly Effect issue from Vogue Portugal, published October 2022.Full story and credits on the print issue.