English Version | Back, back, back again

The terror of the fashion trend concept is also its greatest advantage. Yes, indeed, everything is back in, even the scariest garments (the dreaded low-rise jeans are certainly the best example), but on the other hand, our favorite pieces are also returning. Like everything else, fashion requires balance. And no, sometimes its responsibility is not to challenge our limits or reinvent the wheel, but rather to make us feel good, comforted by the security of what we know suits us. That's exactly why we're happy to report that the rumors are true - the 90s are back in. After what seemed like an eternity, the Y2K revival, our decade of comfort has returned. Bless the high-waisted pants, corsets, and slip dresses. Of course, nothing is as it was and, unlike the last time the trend returned to the wearable zeitgeist, its sweetness has been diluted, leaving only a sensual minimalism.

The resurgence of this particular facet of the decade is not surprising. After all, we've been discussing the predictable recession core for several seasons. It's more than expected that, during times of economic and political hardship, the fashion industry will be less adventurous, relying on pieces that speak directly to its less courageous consumers. Without intending to insult, it's undeniable that, over the last two or three seasons, even the most extroverted brands have been more restrained. This correlation is natural; in fact, part of the minimalism of the 90s was triggered by a crisis similar to the one we feel today. Names like Jil Sander, Miuccia Prada or Helmut Lang are essential for understanding both the initial movement and its revival thirty years later. The latter, in particular, is particularly curious. The titan of the last decade of the 20th century was famous for his deconstructive and minimalist design, but after the departure of his eponymous brand, Helmut Lang sank into what was essentially merchandise from its previous popularity. This dark era for the brand came to an end last year when Peter Do was announced as the new creative director. The Vietnamese-born American designer has, in recent years, become an industry prodigy - the mention of his name was enough to return the spotlight to the brand.  Do, already known for his minimalist designs, has revived the brand. In a classic chicken-and-egg situation, it's impossible to understand whether the popularity of his collections has sparked a new interest in the aesthetic or whether the resurgence of the trend has catalyzed interest in Peter Do's Helmut Lang. Either way, the success of the first two shows is a sign - 90s minimalism has returned. If you have any doubts, think of the resurgence of brands like Ann Demeulemeester and Carven. Miuccia Prada has once again become a central name in understanding the movement. If, 30 years ago, the Italian designer popularized nylon and simple silhouettes, today, through her younger brand, Miu Miu, she celebrates a playful minimalism. It's no coincidence that the brand is the most popular in the world for the second year running. Its microskirts and youthful formality are the 90s recalibrated for the age of social media.

On the opposite side of the spectrum, the increased interest in designers like Thierry Mugler has brought back one of the icons of the 90s: the corset. The wasp waist silhouette has never been so popular. Devoid of the classic campiness of Mugler or Vivienne Westwood, corsets are used functionally. Their purpose is as simple as their design. Popular both on the catwalks and in fast fashion stores, industry titans such as Donatella Versace base entire collections around the corset. The fall/winter 2024 show focused on the garment, of course, in true Versace fashion.

Originally published in The Memories Issue, from April 2024. Full stories and credits are in the print version.