English Version | The opinion that matters

01 Sep 2022
By Ana Murcho

It is said that all opinions are valid, but some are more valid than others. Like that of Hanan Besovic, one of the most acclaimed names of the new generation of fashion critics.

It is said that all opinions are valid, but some are more valid than others. Like that of Hanan Besovic, one of the most acclaimed names of the new generation of fashion critics.

It may not seem like it, but fashion criticism is an art. For a long time, only a select group could give their opinion about trends and collections — a group of “chosen ones”, recognized for having access to all corners of the industry. The Internet, first, and social media, later, came to end this elitist and snobbish paradigm. Today some of the most influential voices in the industry are behind a screen, on a virtual platform — Instagram, YouTube, TikTok, Twitter — that reaches millions of users. What unites them is a (healthy) obsession with fashion, which they “consume” without moderation, with a simple goal: to understand. They are informed, curious, uninhibited, and independent. Their opinions are worth, above all, for the honesty with which they sustain observations and point out details previously ignored.  This new generation of critics is motivated by the same passion and curiosity that pushed Suzy Menkes (Airmail), Tim Blanks (Vogue), Robin Givhan (The Washington Post), Vanessa Friedman (The New York Times), Cathy Horyn (The Cut) or Alexander Fury (Another Magazine and Financial Times) into the trenches of the world's most popular fashion shows, turning their reviews into the most eagerly awaited (and feared) texts by designers and century-old maisons. One of these new voices is Hanan Besovic, who the public knows as @ideservecouture. A native of Croatia, Besovic, who calls himself a “fashion expert in the making”, lives in the United States, from where he shares with his thousands of followers the daily happenings of the previously distant fashion world. We talked to him about this (new) privileged commentator status... and about a possible change in the creative direction of a major fashion house.

It is indisputable that you have a huge understanding of fashion and the intricacies of the industry. Where does all this knowledge come from? Have you always been obsessed with fashion? Obsessed is the perfect word to describe my relation with fashion. I been a fashion devotee for a while. My knowledge of fashion comes from observing fashion from the 2010. Not understanding it immediately but observing the looks and trends. A bit superficial because I didn't dig deep immediately, which I regret now. After a while I would start reading about fashion and the power it had on society. My knowledge of current fashion comes from social media but I do love fashion history. I want to back up my current day knowledge with knowing fashion history also. I want to know what was done, who did it and how they did it. The fashion stories can be extremely interesting. That's why I try to read a lot. I want to know about Yves’ Scandal collection from 1971 so I can better understand Anthony Vaccarello's Spring 2022 collection.

When did you realize you wanted to "examine" Fashion, and what made you take that decision? The show that got me interested in fashion is Plato's Atlantis by McQueen. The show was so different from everything I saw in my life and I was immediately drawn to it. The silhouettes, the Armadillo shoes, the set... it all made sense in a weird apocalyptic, world ending way. After that show I started exploring McQueen more, Marc Jacobs in Louis Vuitton, Olivier start in Balmain, Rick Owens. I remember seeing Margiela Spring 2011 show that had something like box/flat silhouettes and was thinking to myself: “What the hell? I will never get this.” But since I know about myself fashion has been there, maybe not a primary focus all the time but it was something that stuck with me for a long time.

People see you as a fashion critic. And you are, by all means, a fashion critic. You simply use new mediums to express your thoughts — instead of mainstream media, you use social media. How does that make you a “different” kind of fashion critic? Ah the eternal question of a fashion critic. Honestly, I don't consider myself to be a fashion critic yet because I feel there is so much more to learn. I can comment on a collection and express my personal opinion taking in consideration all the factors like the house history, current strategic moves the house makes, business and future plans. But at the end of the day, it is just an opinion so I can see why people can see me as a fashion critic. I use different way of communicating mostly because I try to bring a spark of joy and humor to fashion. It is too serious and I think that's the reason why people respond well to all of this. My mission is to  show the fun/human side of designers and fashion industry. Fashion tries to keep a perfect facade and it’s scared to show the true face of designers. These people are not just money-making machines, they are actual humans that love to laugh and enjoy life. That's the insight that fashion is missing often.

Fashion criticism has grown in the last couple of years, specially when related to social media. A decade ago only a few happy ones could review shows and collections, mainly because they were the ones who had access. Everything changed with the boom of the Internet and, later, of social media. How do you see these changes, and how to you feel they contribute to make the industry more inclusive / accessible? It opened the industry a lot more which is great. It brings different people with a common passion — fashion. I am sure that if social media didn't happen, fashion would be still exclusive and not accepting. Fashion knew that they are controlling people's opinion and buying habits so that power being taken away must have been a huge hit for many people in fashion industry. Social media forced fashion industry to change for better. It made few fashion designers achieve global success without fashion publications or support of an organization and it made many voices heard and people accountable. Don't think that everything in fashion industry is now peaches and cream, because its not. There is still a lot  more work when it comes to inclusivity and representation but at least its a start. In 2022 its about creating a community of fashion devotees. Last time I was in Milan I decided to do a meet up with people that follow my account. I told them at what bar I will be and so many people showed up. People from different paths of life, different age groups, some people from the industry, students, just fashion lovers, it was beautiful. We were there for 5 hours talking about fashion and what we like about it, what we don't and just got to know each other. 

People like you, Pam Boy (who is now head of content of GQ but started on Instagram as @pam_boy) or Dana Tarabey (house_of_dana) have such impact on viewers that, sometimes, a comment from one of you can be more powerful than a mention by a renowned fashion publication. Why do you think people resonate so well with your opinions? That's a good question so let me be detailed as possible. I think that people resonate well with our opinions is because it comes from a good place. We are not trying to be mean or diminish anyone's work, we love fashion for the right reasons. I met Pierre (PamBoy) in Paris last season and you can see there is a huge amount of admiration and awe when it comes to fashion.  I did not have the pleasure of meeting Dana yet but I hope that changes soon. Speaking of the influence, what shocks me is the fact that we are seeing a lot of people in fashion industry that want to have a power of being able to discredit or “ruin” a collection. And a lot of them are influencers themselves that want to feel like they are Miranda Priestly from The Devil wears Prada. The problem occurs when they start believing they are Miranda herself. People that preach about inclusivity but can't wait to close the doors on future talent just to feel that power. It's absurd. And then on the opposite side you have people with actual credentials and track record like Tim Blanks who is extremely nice and kind. I think that's why we resonate with people. We are not there to cancel or ruin someone's work. We are there to see the clothes and translate our opinion to our audience in a way we think our audience will respond to. Expressing positive or negative opinion, keeping it light when we can but just giving fashion their flowers.

Let’s imagine you dislike a collection — not one designed by Maria Grazia or Philipp Plein, but a collection from someone you absolutely love. Or that said collection was present just two days after Fendi sent you an amazing bag. Do you ignore it or go ahead and spill the tea? I still decide to spill the tea but not before I try to understand a collection. For me show notes are extremely important. I always want to see what was the inspiration for a collection and compare it with what was presented. Understanding a collection and reading about the mission gives you an answer to all the questions. I always keep an open mind to any designer, if its Maria, Philipp or Demna. As much as I criticize Maria, I can not deny the fact that she had few collections that are amazing. My approach also differs from others because I try to give an honest opinion on what I would change and why the look or collection didn't resonate with me. I think it's important for them because they are getting an opinion from someone who has experienced fashion through social media all his life. It's free advice and feedback. How the designers takes it, now that's a different question. I spoke to Olivier from Balmain and he is extremely receptive of a critique, which shows he is confident in his vision and work. There is designers that are used to getting a "YES" from everyone around them so when they hear an honest opinion, it doesn't sit well with them.

Fashion seems obsessed with gossip. And is also a great theme for gossip. I remember in 2015-2017, when designers were being replaced in top jobs one after the other, making it almost impossible to keep up with the news. Rumors fly from New York to Paris as if the Concorde still existed. In your opinion, what does this happen? It happens because it’s fashion. Fashion people love gossip and now more than ever because of social media. I mean to this day we are still guessing what designer is going to go to what house on daily basis. It’s a shallow business that is obsessed with image and vanity so of course they will be into gossip.

What is the best fashion gossip you can share with us? How dare you imply that I am into gossip??? But did you hear that, allegedly, there is a good chance that Martine Rose might take over Louis Vuitton menswear?

Fashion week starts soon. What excites you most during that month of shows, street style, announcements, scandals, etc? I know it will be a cliche answer but everything excites me. I hope there is no scandals because we can not follow them properly during the fashion week. People have a wrong picture of fashion week because they follow it on Instagram. Dear audience, what you see are highlights. Trust me, this is not as glamorous as it seems. I try to see as many shows as I can because I want to support all the brands, it can get exhausting. During the last Milan fashion week, I had 7 shows in one day. All at different time and different locations. I mean you catch me in the middle of Paris dressed in all Dior by Kim Jones menswear with a sandwich in my right hand and a caramel eclair in my left hand. And I don't mind showing that on my Instagram because it is reality. It is a real picture of fashion industry. I don't have a lot of time to sit and enjoy the moment. But I still love doing it. Showing people the hard work that goes into creating collections and all the devotion that goes into organizing a show, it should be applauded and rewarded.

In the future, would you like to work for a magazine or do you rather continue with your own platform? Would you like to be the new Robin Givhan? I would love to be the new Robin Givhan but that's not possible. Robin is one of a kind. But I could see myself working for a magazine and keeping my own platform. People want to hear and see fashion always and that's what I want to bring to them. Fashion has been closed circle for such a long time. No need for the elitism in fashion, these are not the 90's anymore. We all have the same passion — why not share it and let everyone enjoy in it?

Translated from the original on The Gossip Issue of Vogue Portugal.Full credits and stories on the print issue.

Ana Murcho By Ana Murcho

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