English Version | In the name of love

Legend has it that it was three in the morning when, still devastated by the end of a relationship, Aldo Cipullo, then in his twenties, set to drawing. That sleepless night, with New York as a backdrop, resulted in what would become one of the most iconic pieces of High Jewellery of all time. Cipullo's pain gave rise to Cartier's Love, a bracelet whose pure, ergonomic design (elegant, unusual lines, soft features) and oval shape, which fits the wrist perfectly, elevate it to the status of a timeless piece of jewelry. This is precisely what its creator wanted. From the very first sketches, the intention of the designer (who would later be responsible for successes such as the Juste Un Clou line) was to develop something that was a physical representation of love and loyalty, something that couldn't be carelessly removed or replaced - as was so often the case with passions, not so overwhelming after all, which seemed to have less and less time to live. So, in the midst of the "make love, not war" era, when symbols were worth a thousand words, Cipullo realized that this object could be used instead of an engagement ring. Instead, it would be synonymous with commitment, understanding, a "modern handcuff of love", as he himself put it.

Today we know that Love's success was inevitable. It has long been the most sought-after piece of High Jewelry on all search engines. But in 1969 it marked a turning point - particularly in the everyday use of jewelry, which became more natural thanks to its industrial, minimalist and functional aesthetic. It was the triumph of the beauty of simplicity. Contrary to what had been customary until then, less became more: Love is a fitted oval bracelet, made up of two rigid bows, which can be removed from the wrist with a special mini screwdriver. The clasp is designed with two practical screws that can be found on either side of the bracelet. The twist that makes the difference? The owner of a Love will need help to open or close it, hence the importance of "sharing" your mini screwdriver with someone... special. This detail was not an impediment to its success - quite the opposite. It is said that, to celebrate its launch, Cartier gave pairs of the bracelet to some of the most famous couples of the time: Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Ali MacGraw and Steve McQueen, Sophia Loren and Carlo Ponti, among others. More than fifty years later, Love is still as popular as it was on the first day. New York hospitals are said to have mini Love screwdrivers on hand in case they have to remove patients' bracelets in an emergency. It was this kind of love that Cipullo had in mind when, that early morning, he set to drawing.

*Originally translated from the Love & Hope Issue, published December 2023. Full credits and stories in the print issue.