English Version | A grain of gold

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The tragic side of this universal truth is that, without realizing it, we overlook the most beautiful things the world has to offer. Think of all the things we ignore daily. Every morning begins similarly: with a cup of coffee in hand. The routine nature of this act makes us forget the origin of what we ingest. This source of liquid energy doesn't fall from the sky, it's extracted from a plant recognized for its practical, cultural, and even economic value, but never for its aesthetic merit. Behind every drop of this stimulating nectar lies the beauty of the plant that creates it. Cartier honors this invisible grace: the coffee plant is the source of inspiration for the Grain de Café collection, where the idiosyncrasies of the species are shaped into bracelets, rings, and necklaces using luxurious materials. It's not just the ability to recognize and recreate the potential of the natural world that sets Grain de Café apart, as this is an intrinsic part of Maison's history. In 1938, Jeanne Toussaint, then creative director, created the first version of this line. Seeking to recreate the limitless versatility of her source of inspiration, Toussaint chose to create the collection exclusively from gold - its malleability allows it to be subjected to countless metallic modifications. Striated, smooth, braided: gold is like clay in the hands of Cartier's artisans, who manipulate it artistically. The collection was an immediate success and, over the years, golden coffee gardens grew, reaching a peak of success in the 1950s and 1960s, when it became a favorite of the cultural elite, with Princess Grace among its greatest admirers. Even after Toussaint's departure from Cartier, Grain de Café survived, embodying the impact the creative director had on the Maison's legacy.

Gold is preserved as the material used in the collection to this day, with only the precious stones that adorn it changing. But if the raw material has remained constant, the source of inspiration has been endlessly reinterpreted in the 85 years since Grain de Café was created. From the leaves to the stem, every component of the coffee plant has become a reflection of Cartier's savoir-faire potential. The bean, normally dark and porous, unleashes its potential when reinterpreted with the luminosity of gold. In the modern edition of Grain de Café, the material is presented in two versions: the classic yellow, adorned with diamonds, and rose gold, where the precious stone is complemented with obsidian. The black glow of the volcanic stone recalls the starting point of the collection. The Midas touch is part of Cartier's DNA, capable of transforming the natural world into pure gold. Grain de Café is the epitome of the Maison's DNA: the alchemy that transforms everyday life into something precious. This is how you can understand Cartier's true prodigy, in using its savoir-faire to highlight the beauty that is hidden in plain sight.

Translated from the original on The Coming Back Issue, published September 2023. Full stories and credits on the print issue.