English Version | “I know that I know nothing” - attributed to Socrates

14 Apr 2022
By Mariana Silva

This is how we feel every time we read the label of a Beauty product. From ingredients to application methods and even the industry’s recent trends, everything seems to originate a multitude of strange words and expressions that no one understands. At least, until having read this dictionary.

This is how we feel every time we read the label of a Beauty product. From ingredients to application methods and even the industry’s recent trends, everything seems to originate a multitude of strange words and expressions that no one understands. At least, until having read this dictionary.

Atopic (skin)

Genetic condition characterized by an hypersensitivity to external agents, such as dust or pollen. In the skin, this allergic reaction develops as an eczema, resulting in disproportional itching and redness. Besides, atopic skin is usually drier and has more open pores, benefiting form a type of care and products adapted to its specific needs. 

Biotin

Also known as vitamin B7, biotin is one of the most recommended supplements for healthy skin, hair and nails. Since it can be found in several foods in our diet, there are not a lot of people which have a true deficiency of this nutrient. However, when this happens, it can be seen on weakened hair and broken nails.  

Cruelty-free

Both products and Beauty brands can be classified as cruelty-free, as a way to guarantee to consumers that, during the manufacturing process, none of the components present in the product (or in the full line of a brand) was tested in animals. All cosmetics sold within the European Union are cruelty-free, since animal testing is prohibited by law. 

Collagen 

It’s present in our body and it’s responsible for the look of our skin. Due to aging and sun exposure, with time, there’s a decrease in the production of this protein, resulting in wrinkles, sagging skin and visible lines. To fight against collagen reduction, many Beauty products count with this component on their formulas, as a way to reverse signs that we typically associate with aging.

Dermabrasion 

Aesthetic procedure which removes the outer-layer of the skin, with the intent to eliminate imperfections such as acne, scars and other irregularities. It’s a surgical procedure, so it must be performed by a dermatologist.

Eau de parfum

Fragrance with a pure concentration of perfume of 12 to 18%. It’s known for creating richer and more lasting smells, in comparison with eau de toilette. 

Eau de toilette

Fragrance with a pure concentration of perfume of 8 to 12%. It’s known for creating softer and less lasting smells, in comparison with eau de parfum. 

Fragrance notes

To describe the feeling and smell of a perfume, it’s common to do so by mentioning its fragrance notes. These can be divided into three big groups: the head notes (the first to be felt), the heart notes (also known as the perfume’s body) and the bottom notes (which finish the essence and last longer). Besides fragrance notes, there are also scent families, which can be floral, citric, oriental, woody, or others.

Gua sha

Beauty tool whose popularity exploded in the last few years, even though it’s an ancient technique from Chinese medicine. It can be made from jade, pink quartz and even copper, among other materials, and it’s used to stimulate circulation and reduce morning puffiness through facial massaging. This tool is even more effective when kept in a cool environment, like a fridge.

Hyaluronic (acid) 

Molecule present in the human body. It is capable of retaining a thousand times more water than its weight and it is responsible for skin hydration. Just like collagen, hyaluronic acid’s natural product decreases with time, resulting in signs of dehydration. For that reason, it’s a frequent component in facial lotions, eye creams and serums. In this last case, its application must be followed by an hydrating cream, so that water can remain on the skin. 

Isododecane

Ingredient frequently found in Beauty products, given its solvent and emollient properties. Isododecane is a colorless liquid that can be added to products like lipsticks, foundations, eyeliners, creams, among many others, to enhance color pigmentation and facilitate a product’s application on the face.

Jade roller

Alongside gua sha, jade roller is a tool that has been used for a long time in Asia, but that recently started to spread out to the Western Beauty industry. Just like the name makes us assume, it’s a small roller made out of jade, usually used to perform a facial massage, and whose benefits are similar to other face tools: relaxing muscles, stimulating circulation and reducing morning puffiness. 

K-Beauty

This is a concept used to refer to the Korean Beauty sector, partially thanks to its growing global influence. From techniques to products, it works as an “umbrella concept” to cover all trends which originate in this country’s culture.

Keratin

Protein present in the human body, responsible for defining the strength and resistance of our hair and nails. Given its strengthening properties, it’s common to find keratin in the formulas of hair products, but it can also be consumed through supplements or with specialized treatments. This protein is generally made out of animal-based components, and there aren’t yet any synthetical alternatives that can turn it into a vegan protein. 

Lash lift

Non-invasive treatment which acts on the eyelashes’ curve, size and volume, allowing an effect similar to fake lashes and mascara. A lash lift should be performed by a cosmetician and its results can last up to eight weeks without maintenance.

Microbiome

Set of microorganisms, singular to each human being, and composed by bacteria, fungi and even viruses which live in our body and interact between themselves to regulate our health. The skin’s microbiome can also be called microbiota, and it has a crucial roll in protecting the skin from external aggressive agents. Some product formulas may change the types and volumes of skin-living organisms, which should be considered when choosing cosmetics, preferring those which maintain a certain balance, like probiotic products.

Organic

Classifying a Beauty product as organic is dependent on the type of natural ingredients which make up for its formula. In that sense, organic ingredients are those which are grown biologically, without resorting to chemicals or synthetical components. Since it’s almost impossible not to add chemicals to the formulas of Beauty products, there’s only a certain percentage of organic ingredientes needed for it to have “organic” written on the label. 

Photo-protection

Process through which there’s a reduction of the skin’s exposure to ultraviolet radiation, protecting the dermis from the negative consequences that come from overexposure. Photo-protective action can be obtained through the use of sunscreens, whose efficacy depends on the SPF (sun-protection factor). 

Probiotics

Bacteria beneficial to our body, which can be ingested through food, supplements or even Beauty products. In this last case, probiotics are more common in skincare, to integrate the skin’s microbiome and contribute to its well-being. A balance dermis is essential to regulate hydration and oil levels, as well as protect from pollution, UV rays and other external agents.

Refillable products

Process which contributes to the sustainability of the Beauty industry, since it allows for a consumer to restore a product’s content without needing to buy a second package in its entirety. It’s already possible to find several refillable cosmetics, such as perfumes, creams, lipsticks or even eyeshadow. 

Retinol 

A part of the retinoids group, retinol derives from Vitamin A and is one of the most common ingredients in skincare, like creams or serums. Its main benefits are minimizing signs of aging, even though it’s also effective against acne and the effects of overexposure, like hyperpigmentation.

Sulfates

Synthetic element known for its cleansing properties used in several types of bathing cosmetics, but mainly in shampoos. The presence of sulfates in a formula creates a foaming effect which helps to rinse a product easily, at the same time it leaves a deep cleansing sensation. Due to its chemical composition, the Beauty industry has been raising questions about the safety in including sulfates in products, and there are already several “sulfate-free” options available.

Toner

Beauty product which hydrates the skin and removes dead cells. When integrated into a Beauty routine, the toner should be used after a cleansing product, since it helps maintain the right pH in the skin. 

Ultraviolet radiation

Also known as UV radiation, this is a type of radiation emitted by the sun or other artificial sources, like tanning beds, responsible for the production of Vitamin D in the human body. An overexposure to UV rays can, however, result in health problems, from burns to skin cancer.

Vegan

In the Beauty industry, vegan is a concept used to classify the products which don’t have any animal-based components on their formulas. It’s important to clarify that a vegan product doesn’t have to necessarily be cruelty-free, since the first concept is associated with the ingredients used, while the second is a result of the manufacturing process.

Witch hazel 

Plant known for its antioxidant properties, which, in skincare products, like toners, help combat acne by removing excess oil from the skin, while also being able to calm skin rashes and swelling.

Xeomin

Similar to botox, this is an injectable solution used in dermocosmetics to fill wrinkles and minimize fine lines. This treatment differs from botox simply because of its formula, since xeomin contains a more “pure” version of botulinum toxin, without the additional proteins that are found in botox.

Yoga (facial) 

Technique involving facial massages and various exercises performed with the intent to stimulate and tone both the face’s muscles and skin. Its main benefits are tension relief, less visible lines and increased skin glow. 

Zinc oxide

Among the various minerals that can be found in the formulas of Beauty products, zinc oxide is one of the favorites of the industry. It’s mostly present in lotions and sunscreens, thanks to its ability to filtrate UV rays and protect the skin from the consequences of sun exposure. However, its use is limited by the European Union, since the inhalation of zinc oxide’s nanoparticles can be harmful to our health. 

Translated form the original on The Quote Issue, from Vogue Portugal, published April 2022.Full stories and credits on the print issue.

Mariana Silva By Mariana Silva

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